Saturday, September 15, 2012

Cyrille Diatkine


‘Kelly en Calèche’, 2007
Credit: Hermès.com

シリル・ディアトキンの作風は、アナモルフェ、ディミトリ・リバルチェンコに並んで、斬新でスタイリッシュ。デザイナー肌のアーティストで、一枚の絵というより、ポスターのようにカレを構成する。

Le style de Cyrille Diatkine est moderne et très stylisé. Tout comme Anamorphée et  Dimitri Rybaltchenko, elle est artiste dessinatrice plutôt qu’artiste peintre, concevant le carré comme une affiche plutôt qu’une toile.

Cyrille Diatkine’s style is modern and very stylish. As Anamorphée and Dimitri Rybaltchenko, she is artist/designer rather than artist/painter, who designs the square as a poster rather than a painting.

‘En Désordre’, 2006
Credit: Luxury-scarves.com
断片的に配置されたカレ『式典用馬勒』。影絵のよう。
Fragments en silhouette du carré «Brides de Gala».
Fragments of the carré "Brides de Gala” in silhouette.

とりわけ多いのが、視覚的イリュージョンを追求した作品だ。そして、シリルをインスパイアしてやまない創造の源泉こそ、アートである。カレ一枚一枚が、アート作品へのオマージュといっても過言ではない。

Cyrille aime jouer sur l'illusion et le trompe l'œil. Plus globalement, l’Art en général est une source d’inspiration incontestable pour sa création. D’une certaine manière, tous ses carrés sont l’expression de sa dévotion et de sa connaissance profonde sur l’art.

Cyrille likes to play with the illusion and trompe l'oeil. More generally, all the artistic movements are the source of inspiration for her creation. Somehow, Cyrille’s squares are the expression of her devotion and her deep knowledge of the art.

‘Joséphine Danse’, 2007
Credit: Luxury-scarves.com
Sigmar Polke, ‘Girlfriends’, 1965-1966
Credit: 
Sammlung Froehlich, Stuttgart

ポップアートの潮流のなか、印刷物をドットレベルまで拡大して描き、「高尚な」絵画と印刷物の境界を問い直したシグマー・ポルケ。いっぽう、時を同じくして、ロベール・デルピールによる『貝殻』(1964年)で、メゾンもカレのデザインに初めて写真を取りこむ。けれど、以来、写真がカレの素材となることは稀だった。シリルの登場で、その伝統も大胆に覆される。

À l'instar des artistes du Pop Art américain, Sigmar Polke a brisé la frontière entre l’imprimé et la “grande” peinture en reproduisant sur la toile les points de la trame. Or, c'était à la même époque, précisément en 1964, que la maison Hermès a sorti son premier carré photographique, intitulé «Coquilles», œuvre de Robert Delpire. Il s’agit toujours d’un des rares carrés mettant en avant les photos. Il fallait attendre l’arrivée de Cyrille pour que la maison redécouvre et réintroduise ce matériau dans l’univers de la soie. 

Like the artists of American Pop Art, Sigmar Polke has broken the boundary between the prints and the "Paintings" by reproducing the enlarged printing dots on canvas.  Hermes’ first photographic square, "Coquilles" by Robert Delpire, was released almost at the same time, precisely in 1964. It is still one of the few squares which image referes to the photos. For the rediscovery and reintroduction of this material to the silk, Hermes had to wait for Cyrille’s arrival.

‘Pierre Loti ou l'Âme Voyageuse’, 2009
Credit: Luxury-scarves.com
Martial Raysse, ‘Suddenly Last Summer’, 1963
Credit: Centre George Pompidou, Paris

同じく60年代。広告の切りぬきや日用品を「アサンブラージュ」し、アート作品に仕立て上げたマルシャル・レイス。仏ポップアートを代表する作家として知られる。シリルによるカレ『ピエール・ロティ、旅に憑かれた人』は、そのキッチュなカラー、スタイルを彷彿とさせる。

Connu comme membre de l’art pop français, Martial Raysse a également remis en question dans les années 60 le concept classique de l’œuvre d’art en assemblant des objets du quotidien et des images empruntées à la publicité. Ces couleurs kitsch et saturées sont reprises par Cyrille dans son carré  «Pierre Loti ou l'Âme Voyageuse». 

In the 60s, Martial Raysse, known as a member of the French pop art, also questioned the classic concept of the art work by assembling everyday objects and images drawn from advertising. These saturated and kitsch colors are picked up by Cyrille in her square entitled "Pierre Loti ou l'Âme Voyageuse".


‘Le Monde est Vaste’, 2009
Credit: Hermès.com
Juan Gris, 'Glass of Beer and Playing Cards', 1913
Credit: 
Columbus Museum of Art, Ohio

そして。シリルのトレードマークとも言えるのが、幾層にも切断した断片を再構築するという手法。複数の視点を一空間にとりこみ、認識レベルでオブジェを再構成するというその手法は、キュビズムに通ずる。

Enfin, Cyrille aime à la fois détruire et reconstruire. Carré recomposé de multiples tranches, c’est sa marque de fabrique. Cette méthode rappelle d’ailleurs celle des cubistes qui ont intégré plusieurs points de vue dans une seule et même peinture. Là-bas, le spectateur doit reconstruire lui-même l’image au niveau cognitif.

Finally, Cyrille loves both destruction and reconstruction. Carré composed by multiple slices: that is her trademark. Such approach also recalls Cubists’ paintings where several viewpoints are integrated in a single canvas. It is the viewer him-self who must reconstruct the image at the cognitive level. 

‘Astrologie Nouvelle’, 2012
Credit: Hermès.com
Yaacov Agam, ‘Sparkling Night Rainbow’, 1981
Credit: http://www.polizzifineart.com
また、寸断されたイメージがもたらす視覚効果は、オプティックアートのようだ。
Par ailleurs, le rythme frénétique produit par les facettes nous renvoie aussi à celui de l’art optique.
In the other hand, the frenetic rythm produced by a large number of facets 
also reminds us the paintings of Optical Art.

時代背景も文脈も異なるものの、アート史を塗りかえてきた革新的な手法を取りこむことで、シリルもカレに新たな息吹をもたらしている。

Même si les contextes historiques sont tout à fait différents pour les uns et les autres, il est vrai que Cyrille a réussi à apporter un nouveau souffle créatif à la maison en s'inspirant des artistes révolutionnaires qui ont marqué l'histoire de l'art.

While historical contexts are quite different for each artist, it is true that Cyrille, inspired by revolutionary artists who mark the art history, creats succesfuly a new style of carrés.

13 comments:

  1. Fantastique votre article Iris ! J'ai adoré le parallèle fait entre les carrés et les tableaux. Et vous avez particulièrement bien choisi les peintures, même les couleurs sont similaires, pour mieux souligner leur ressemblance. Bravo !!!

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    1. Merci beaucoup Scarfmoodist pour votre appréciation ! Evidemment, je me suis bien amusée à faire le parallèle et choisir les tableaux ! Je suis contente de savoir que cela vous a plu :-)))

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  2. Anonymous18/9/12 07:02

    Very interesting, Iris! I appreciate the time you put into your research. There is always something about the artist or design that I never knew. I absolutely love the Astrologie Novelle this season. I very much like the movement of colors in this scarf. I assume this is the one that we'll see you model next?

    If you have Le Monde est Vaste, I will be so envious! I missed out on that one, but have hopes of finding it one day.

    Cynthia

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    1. Hi Cynthia, thank you for your sweet words! Very happy to know you are enjoying reading my posts and you love so much the Astrologie Nouvelle! I also particularly love its wonderful color mixing. So many beautiful colors in each cw! About AN, I have something to tell you. While I was waiting for the arrival of another cw 03, I finally changed my mind for cw 01 which was perhaps more useful in my wardrobe. So I’ll post in near future their action shots ;-)
      Ps. I missed also Le Monde est Vaste! But…, with AN, I feel like caching up!

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    2. Anonymous19/9/12 06:08

      Iris, I'm happy that you found another cw that you like in AN, but I was so hoping that cw 03 would win your heart, since that is the cw that I chose for myself. cw 01 has some great colors, too, and I am looking forward to seeing your action shots. With all of the colors, it's such a versatile scarf of many possibilities. Congratulations on picking up a second cw!

      Cynthia

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    3. Thank you for your warm message Cynthia. I have to say I still love the cw 03. But as I already doubled the AN, I have to stop thinking about her!!! ;-)

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  3. How interesting to read about Cyrille Diatkine. I adore his Kelly en Caleche design it is one of my all time Hermes favourites and it took me ages to get 2 KenC second hand. I have a pink one that had a very hard life before coming to me and a white one as in your photo which is my "best" KenC in the original 70cm vintage silk! I also got the cotton version. I had not appreciated that he designed the other scarves you have shown so thank you for enlightening me! SAx

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    1. Thank you for your message SA! Very happy to know you are enjoying reading. I saw you wearing your lovely KenC. I have to say I was so envious ;-) I agree the design is so sophisticated and classy. If I have an opportunity someday, I would also take B&W 70cm!!

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  4. Fascinating designer , her thumbprint isn't always obvious but the designs all have a freshness and irreverence that I enjoy a lot .
    she also designed Tour de Cles which I love as a design .

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    1. Thank you Estrella for leaving your message! Yes, her design is always bold. As you say, Tour de Clés is truly stylish and pretty design too. « Astrologie Nouvelle » opened my eyes to her world. From now on, I will pay more attention to her!

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  5. I also appreciate all the work you put into your posts to inform all of us.It's a whole new world for me ,one that takes fashion to a different level.I was fascinated by girlfriends,so unique...never Knew anything like that existed.

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    1. Thank you Angie for your appreciation! You made my day! Because, if my posts brought you some different points of view, I’m really really happy. :-)))

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  6. Thanks for sharing this amazing and informative post. keep sharing with us.

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